Underraga Winery Tour
I booked the wine tour to Underraga Winery through my hostel. We were picked up at our hotels It was just a couple from England and me. There was a whole tour bus already at the winery that we joined once the tour and tasting began.
I was surprised by how good the wines were. I’d never really considered Chilean wines at home. The tour was much more informative than any I’ve ever been on. The Carmenet and Cabernet Sauvignons were absolutely delicious.
The traffic was horrible when we got back into Santiago. We were in gridlock for at least an hour.
The Cockroach Incident
(There HAD to be a cockroach story!) Although I had thoroughly searched my room for the little buggers, I think they were lurking in the crevices the whole time. I think one must have gotten into my backpack which I had brought with me on the wine trip.
Stuck in traffic with my wine buzz completely worn off, I felt a tickle on my leg. I was mortified to find that there was a teenage size cockroach? on my thigh. I flung it off with a yelp and said “insecto”!!!! I told him I thought it might have been a cucharacha. He assured me there would never be a cockroach in his car.
Five minutes later, I felt it on my left foot. Again I yelled, mortified, kicking my foot spastically and holding up my backpack to see where it went. The driver didn’t know what to do.
When we pulled up to my hotel, I gave him a tip and was ready to get out and shake out my clothes when he reminded me that I still needed to pay. It was $59 and I’d already paid a $9 deposit. So I would owe $50. He told me no, I owe $59. I said no. He called his boss and his boss made me pay the $59. I just wanted to get away from the cockroach so I gave him the money and left.
I told the hostel guy and he called the tour company. I was right. The next morning I got an envelope with the $9 and the poor guy’s $10 tip. I tried to send the tip back but they hostel said just forget it.
I must admit… I looked in my backpack and there was an open bag of corn nuts. And you could easily smell the granola in my ziplocked baggie. Probably if I don’t have those, there would not have been a “cockroach incident “. So it’s kinda my fault.
Bellas Artes
The Bellas Artes neighborhood is full of colorful restaurants and bars. After changing into warmer clothes, I was asking the front desk about Bellas Artes and a 20-year-old Australian girl who had just arrived overheard me. She said she also wanted to go there so she suggested we go together. Which we did! This is the beauty of travel. Meeting random people of all ages and cultures.
The hostel guy recommended a place called Viva la Vida. I had pastel do choclo which is like a shepherds pie filled with beef and chicken, topped with corn.
Even though we were warned by the hostel not to walk there at night, it was fine at dusk when we came back.
Cerro San Cristobal
The next day, I took the advice of the English couple from the winery tour and went to Cerro San Cristobal which is a giant hill in the middle of the town. You take a funicular to the top, get off and look around, then take the cable car down the back side of the hill. In both stopping points you will find cafes and play areas for kids, and the cable car stop also has a zoo and even a Japanese garden. You can easily spend half a day up there.
My fellow cable car-mates (also English) invited me to go with them to the gardens but I wanted to get to Valparaiso by dark so I got maybe the best gelato I’ve ever had and headed back down.
Traveler Tips and Observations
*Early November may be slightly too early to visit Chile. It’s definitely not summer; it’s only spring and spring is temperamental wherever you are. According to Weather.com, it’ll warm up in 1-2 weeks. Still, there are crowds and lines at tourist attractions.
*Chilenos are prompt and walk normal speed. No mañana time here.
*Chilean Spanish is very hard to understand. It’s fast and it’s “mushy”? If that makes sense. There are also many different words. I confirmed this with someone from Spain and also the Brazilian. It is very different. 
Santiago Costs:
- Dorm in Hostal $15 Private room in hostel $30-50
- Burger $8
- Giant Beer $5 ( they don’t have small beers). The smallest is called a “shop” and is 20 oz.
- Pizza $10-12
- Cocktail $8
- Ceviche $10
- Water $1
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