Before heading out to La Boca, I went to the museum of Modern Art. I quickly realized that I don’t like modern art.
Next, I checked out La Boca, a neighborhood to the south, where many of the first immigrants landed when they came to Argentina. There was a large wave of Italians, and the influence is evident in Buenos Aires. Most pasta I had has been freshly made.
La Boca was amazing! I wish I would’ve done this on Day One in San Telmo. It’s a beautiful neighborhood with lots going on.
There are live tango dancers in many of the restaurants that you can watch while you’re eating.
I bought a ring and a necklace that I LOVE at a craft stand for $7 each, then took the boat taxi to the other port so I thought well, there’s my sunset cruise minus the drinks and minus the sunset.
I was disappointed to learn that Buenos Aires is not on the Atlantic. The only body of water on the coast is the Rio de la Plata. It is really gross, and it’s why they don’t have beaches.
There was a 5 foot wide river of garbage that floated by, and the water is muddy brown. There’s nothing to see except trees and the city skyline.
That night, I went back to the wine bar just to say hi. John again convinced me to stay.
He and I had an on and off convo while he attended to his other customers. With a glimmer in his eye, John told me he got lucky last night. He was super hung over and had been up all night. This was not great because he was much busier than usual.
Richard popped his head in and John convinced him to stay for a half a glass of wine. It was sooo nice to talk. And in English!
As he was leaving, Richard walked me to this place he knew that had delicious empanadas which I had wanted for my last night.
The bartender was all tatted up, with a nose ring (like a bull’s), a horizontal one at the top of his nose, and an eyebrow one. He had a very kind spirit.
I told him he looked like Jason Momoa since he had those diagonal lines shaved into his eyebrows. I was commenting on the portion sizes in Argentina and the weight I must’ve gained since I’ve been here, and he told me I was not fat and that I was beautiful. And that if I ever come back to Buenos Aires that I must come see him.
This kind of experience is what I’ve been missing my whole trip, just having a real, deep conversation with another person that understands me, even in Spanish. I had a great last night.
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